Chitwan Jungle Safari

Overview

Chitwan was Nepal's first national park, gazetted in 1973 on what had been a royal hunting reserve, and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984. It sits in the lowland Terai on the Indian border — subtropical sal forest, elephant grass and river, 150 metres above sea level and a different country entirely from the mountains four hours north.

It is also the conservation success story Nepal is best known for. The one-horned rhino population fell to around a hundred by the mid-1960s; it is now above 690, and Nepal has recorded several consecutive years of zero rhino poaching.

What you actually see

Rhino — routinely. They graze in the open, they wallow in the river, and on a good day you will see several.

Crocodile — gharial and mugger both, easiest from the canoe.

Birds — over 500 species recorded, including the Bengal florican and the giant hornbill. If you have any interest at all in birds, bring binoculars.

Tiger — rarely. Accept this before you go and everything else is a bonus.

Sloth bear, gaur, wild elephant, leopard — occasional, and a matter of luck.

Three ways in

The jeep safari covers ground and reaches the interior grasslands. The canoe on the Rapti is silent and gets you close to crocodiles and waterbirds. The guided walk is the one you will remember: on foot, in grass well above head height, with a naturalist and an armed escort.

Practicalities

Park entry is NPR 2,000 per person per day. Lodges range from simple guesthouses in Sauraha to serious buffer-zone lodges with naturalists on staff.

Bring long sleeves and trousers in neutral colours, insect repellent, and binoculars. Leeches are a monsoon problem only.

Best season

January to March is the best combination of cut grass, dry ground and mild weather. October to December is good with taller grass. April and May are hot but bring concentrated wildlife around shrinking water. The monsoon closes much of the park.