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The mountain seen from inside a tent at camp

Trek · Everest Region

Baruntse Expedition

Thirty-two days to 7,129 metres in the Hongu basin, the classic first seven-thousander. Straightforward climbing in a genuinely remote place, often linked with Mera Peak.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Jérôme Boursier on Unsplash

Duration
32 days
Distance
160 km
Max altitude
7,129 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Apr–May · Oct–Nov
Cost
$11,000–$20,000

Overview

Baruntse is 7,129 metres in the Hongu basin, east of the Khumbu, and it is the mountain most people choose for a first seven-thousander. The south-east ridge is moderate snow and ice, fixed where it steepens, with no rock and no icefall.

What it asks for is endurance at altitude — which is precisely the rehearsal an eight-thousander requires.

The approach

Over the Zatrwa La into the Hinku, up to Khare, then across the Mera La into the Hongu — a basin with no settlement, no lodges and no way out except the way you came or a helicopter. Base camp sits at 5,400 m by the Panch Pokhari lakes.

Most teams climb Mera Peak on the way through. It is perfect acclimatisation and banks a summit in case Baruntse's weather never opens.

The wind

Baruntse's summit ridge sits exposed to the jet stream in a way its neighbours do not, and wind — not difficulty, not altitude — is what turns most parties back. Success rates swing hard from year to year for that reason.

What it costs

USD 11,000 to 20,000. The royalty is USD 600 in spring and USD 300 in autumn; the rest is the crew, the camps carried into an uninhabited basin, and — for nearly everyone — the helicopter out.

Day by day

The 32 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu — briefing and packing

    Ministry briefing, gear check, expedition load-out

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Kathmandu to Lukla, walk to Chutanga

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Lukla (2,860 m) → Chutanga (3,050 m)

    Walking
    3 hours after the flight
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 3,050 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Chutanga
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    Over the Zatrwa La to Thuli Kharka

    Chutanga (3,050 m) → Zatrwa La (4,610 m) → Thuli Kharka (4,300 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    3,050 m → 4,300 m
    Elevation
    +1560 m / −310 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Thuli Kharka
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  4. Day 4

    Thuli Kharka to Kothe

    Thuli Kharka (4,300 m) → Kothe (3,600 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    4,300 m → 3,600 m
    Elevation
    −700 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Kothe
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  5. Day 5

    Kothe to Thangnak

    Kothe (3,600 m) → Thangnak (4,350 m)

    Distance
    9 km
    Walking
    4 hours
    Altitude
    3,600 m → 4,350 m
    Elevation
    +750 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Thangnak
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    Thangnak to Khare

    Thangnak (4,350 m) → Khare (5,045 m)

    Distance
    7 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    4,350 m → 5,045 m
    Elevation
    +695 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Khare
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  7. Day 7

    Khare — acclimatisation and optional Mera Peak

    Khare (5,045 m); many teams climb Mera (6,476 m) as acclimatisation

    Altitude
    5,045 m → 5,045 m
    Sleep
    Lodge or camp, Khare
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Baruntse expeditions commonly climb Mera first — it is on the way, it is the ideal acclimatisation, and it means a second summit if the weather on Baruntse does not cooperate. Doing so needs its own NMA permit and adds about five days.

  8. Day 8

    Khare over the Mera La into the Hongu

    Khare (5,045 m) → Mera La (5,415 m) → Hongu valley camp (5,000 m)

    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    5,045 m → 5,000 m
    Elevation
    +370 m / −415 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Crossing into the Hongu — no settlement from here on
  9. Day 9

    Hongu valley to Baruntse base camp

    Hongu camp (5,000 m) → base camp (5,400 m)

    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    5,000 m → 5,400 m
    Elevation
    +400 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Panch Pokhari lakes
    • Baruntse's south face
  10. Day 10

    Base camp — puja, skills and rest

    Base camp (5,400 m)

    Altitude
    5,400 m → 5,400 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  11. Day 11

    Rotation to camp one

    Base camp (5,400 m) → camp one (6,100 m) → base camp

    Walking
    8 hours
    Altitude
    5,400 m → 5,400 m
    Elevation
    +700 m / −700 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  12. Day 12

    Rotation — sleep at camp one

    Base camp (5,400 m) → camp one (6,100 m)

    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    5,400 m → 6,100 m
    Elevation
    +700 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp one
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  13. Day 13

    Camp one towards camp two, then descend

    Camp one (6,100 m) → camp two (6,400 m) → base camp (5,400 m)

    Walking
    8 hours
    Altitude
    6,100 m → 5,400 m
    Elevation
    +300 m / −1000 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  14. Day 14

    Base camp — rest and weather watch

    Base camp (5,400 m)

    Altitude
    5,400 m → 5,400 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  15. Day 15

    Summit push — base camp to camp one

    Base camp (5,400 m) → camp one (6,100 m)

    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    5,400 m → 6,100 m
    Elevation
    +700 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp one
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  16. Day 16

    Camp one to camp two

    Camp one (6,100 m) → camp two (6,400 m)

    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    6,100 m → 6,400 m
    Elevation
    +300 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp two
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • The col below the south-east ridge
  17. Day 17

    Summit day, and down to camp one

    Camp two (6,400 m) → Baruntse (7,129 m) → camp one (6,100 m)

    Walking
    12–14 hours
    Altitude
    6,400 m → 6,100 m
    Elevation
    +729 m / −1029 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp one
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The south-east ridge — snow and ice at a moderate angle, fixed on the steeper sections, with a corniced final crest. Not technically hard, but long, cold and high, and the wind on the ridge decides most attempts.

    • Everest
    • Lhotse
    • Makalu and Chamlang from the summit
  18. Day 18

    Base camp — contingency and reserve days

    Base camp (5,400 m); spare days for weather and a second attempt

    Altitude
    5,400 m → 5,400 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  19. Day 19

    Base camp out to Lukla, or helicopter

    Base camp (5,400 m) → Lukla (2,860 m)

    Walking
    4 days on foot, or 25 minutes by helicopter
    Altitude
    5,400 m → 2,860 m
    Elevation
    −2540 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Lukla
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Most teams fly out from base camp. Walking means recrossing the Mera La and the Zatrwa La with tired legs — four days, and the reason a helicopter line is in nearly every budget.

  20. Day 20

    Lukla to Kathmandu, and reserve days

    Lukla (2,860 m) → Kathmandu (1,400 m)

    Walking
    35 minutes by air
    Altitude
    2,860 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

Why is Baruntse the usual first seven-thousander?
Because the climbing is moderate for the height. The south-east ridge is snow and ice at a reasonable angle, fixed where it steepens, with no rock pitches and no icefall. What it asks for is the ability to keep going for twelve to fourteen hours above 6,400 metres — which is exactly the skill a first eight-thousander demands.
Should you climb Mera Peak first?
Most teams do, and it is a good idea. Mera sits directly on the approach, it is ideal acclimatisation, and it banks a 6,476-metre summit in case Baruntse's weather closes out. It needs its own NMA permit and adds around five days.
How remote is it?
Very. The Hongu basin has no permanent settlement, no lodges and no villages — everything is carried in over the Mera La, and evacuation means a helicopter. There is nothing between base camp and Khare.
What is the main obstacle?
Wind. Baruntse's summit ridge is exposed and the mountain sits in the path of the jet stream in a way its neighbours do not. Teams routinely sit at base camp for a week waiting, and success rates swing wildly year to year for that reason alone.
When should you go?
April to May and October to November. Autumn is the more settled season for the ridge; spring gives better snow conditions on the approach and pairs more naturally with a Mera ascent.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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