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Ridge after ridge fading into haze in remote western Nepal

Trek · Nepal

Limi Valley Trek

Seventeen days from Simikot around a Tibetan-speaking valley on the border, over the Nyalu La at 4,990 metres, on a trade route where yak caravans still move salt. The least-walked circuit in Nepal.

By Tom Eriksen

Photo by Shreyashka Maharjan on Unsplash

Duration
17 days
Distance
190 km
Max altitude
4,990 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
May–Sep
Cost
$2,400–$4,000

Overview

Humla is Nepal's north-western corner, and the Limi Valley is its far side — three Tibetan-speaking Buddhist villages, Til, Halji and Jang, sitting on a trade route to Tibet that yak caravans still work.

Seventeen days from Simikot, over the Nyalu La at 4,990 metres, camping almost throughout. Very few people go.

The route

North from Simikot down to the Karnali and up its gorge past hot springs at Kermi, through Yalbang — with the large Namkha Khyung Dzong monastery — to Hilsa on the Tibetan border, where Kailash pilgrims cross.

Then east into Limi itself: Til, Halji with the eleventh-century Rinchenling Gompa, and Jang. Out over the Nyalu La, which on a clear day shows Mount Kailash to the north, and down past the Selima Tso lake.

The season is upside down

Humla sits mostly behind the main range, so it gets far less monsoon than central Nepal. May to September is the season; the Nyalu La is closed by snow outside it.

Getting there

Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, overnight, then a morning-only flight to Simikot on a hillside airstrip. Both legs cancel readily and backlogs clear slowly. Spare days at each end are not optional.

What to expect

Homestays in the three Limi villages and tents everywhere else. No lodges, no resupply, no quick evacuation. The reward is a valley that has changed less than almost anywhere else in the Himalaya, and a fortnight without meeting another trekking group.

Day by day

The 17 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu to Nepalgunj

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Nepalgunj (150 m)

    Walking
    1 hour by air
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 150 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Nepalgunj
    Meals
    Dinner
  2. Day 2

    Nepalgunj to Simikot

    Nepalgunj (150 m) → Simikot (2,910 m)

    Walking
    50 minutes by air
    Altitude
    150 m → 2,910 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Simikot
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A morning-only flight into a hillside airstrip. Cancellations are common and the backlog clears slowly, so a spare day here is not optional.

  3. Day 3

    Simikot to Dharapori

    Simikot (2,910 m) → Dharapori (2,400 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    2,910 m → 2,400 m
    Elevation
    −510 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Dharapori
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Karnali gorge
    • Hindu Thakuri villages
  4. Day 4

    Dharapori to Kermi

    Dharapori (2,400 m) → Kermi (2,690 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    2,400 m → 2,690 m
    Elevation
    +290 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Kermi
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Hot springs
    • First Buddhist village
  5. Day 5

    Kermi to Yalbang

    Kermi (2,690 m) → Yalbang (3,020 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    2,690 m → 3,020 m
    Elevation
    +330 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Yalbang
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Namkha Khyung Dzong monastery
  6. Day 6

    Yalbang to Tumkot

    Yalbang (3,020 m) → Tumkot (3,380 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,020 m → 3,380 m
    Elevation
    +360 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Tumkot
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  7. Day 7

    Tumkot to Yari

    Tumkot (3,380 m) → Yari (3,700 m)

    Distance
    13 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,380 m → 3,700 m
    Elevation
    +320 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Yari
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  8. Day 8

    Yari over Nara La toward Hilsa

    Yari (3,700 m) → Nara La (4,620 m) → Hilsa (3,720 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    3,700 m → 3,720 m
    Elevation
    +920 m / −900 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Hilsa
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Hilsa is the border crossing used by Kailash pilgrims. The bridge across the Karnali is the frontier.

    • Nara La
    • The Tibetan border at the Karnali bridge
  9. Day 9

    Hilsa to Manepeme

    Hilsa (3,720 m) → Manepeme (3,990 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,720 m → 3,990 m
    Elevation
    +470 m / −200 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Manepeme
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  10. Day 10

    Manepeme to Til

    Manepeme (3,990 m) → Til (4,000 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,990 m → 4,000 m
    Elevation
    +400 m / −390 m
    Sleep
    Homestay, Til
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Til
    • the first Limi village
  11. Day 11

    Til to Halji

    Til (4,000 m) → Halji (3,660 m)

    Distance
    9 km
    Walking
    4 hours
    Altitude
    4,000 m → 3,660 m
    Elevation
    −340 m
    Sleep
    Homestay, Halji
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Rinchenling at Halji is the oldest and most important monastery in Limi, founded in the eleventh century in the Kadampa tradition.

    • Rinchenling Gompa
    • around a thousand years old
  12. Day 12

    Halji to Jang

    Halji (3,660 m) → Jang (3,930 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,660 m → 3,930 m
    Elevation
    +270 m
    Sleep
    Homestay, Jang
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • The third and last Limi village
  13. Day 13

    Jang to Talung

    Jang (3,930 m) → Talung (4,370 m)

    Distance
    16 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    3,930 m → 4,370 m
    Elevation
    +440 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Talung
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Yak pastures
    • Wild horses
  14. Day 14

    Over the Nyalu La to Shinjungma

    Talung (4,370 m) → Nyalu La (4,990 m) → Shinjungma (3,620 m)

    Distance
    18 km
    Walking
    9 hours
    Altitude
    4,370 m → 3,620 m
    Elevation
    +620 m / −1370 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Shinjungma
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The crux, and the one day that can show Kailash away to the north across the border. A long descent past Selima Tso afterwards.

    • Nyalu La at 4
    • 990 m
    • Mount Kailash on a clear day
    • Selima Tso lake
  15. Day 15

    Shinjungma to Kermi

    Shinjungma (3,620 m) → Kermi (2,690 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,620 m → 2,690 m
    Elevation
    −930 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Kermi
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  16. Day 16

    Kermi to Simikot

    Kermi (2,690 m) → Simikot (2,910 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    2,690 m → 2,910 m
    Elevation
    +520 m / −300 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Simikot
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  17. Day 17

    Simikot to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu

    Simikot (2,910 m) → Nepalgunj → Kathmandu (1,400 m)

    Walking
    2 hours by air, with a connection
    Altitude
    2,910 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

What does the Humla permit cost?
USD 50 per person for the first week and USD 10 per day after that, issued through a registered agency with a licensed guide and a minimum of two trekkers. Cheaper than Upper Mustang or Dolpo, and Humla sees a fraction of their traffic.
Can you see Mount Kailash?
From the Nyalu La on a clear day, yes — away to the north inside Tibet. It is not guaranteed and it is distant, but the pass is the one place on the route where it is possible.
Why walk it in summer?
Humla is largely behind the main range and gets much less monsoon rain than central Nepal, so May to September is the season. The Nyalu La is snowbound outside it, and the Simikot flights are more reliable in settled summer weather than people expect.
Is there a lodge network?
No. There are homestays in the three Limi villages and nothing else, so the trek is camped with a full crew for most of its length. Til, Halji and Jang are the only nights indoors.
What is the salt trade route?
The trail through Limi is part of an old trans-Himalayan trade route between Tibet and the Nepali hills, and yak and goat caravans still move salt and grain along it seasonally. It is one of the very few places you can still see this working rather than reconstructed.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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