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Trek · Nepal

Dhaulagiri Expedition

Forty-five days to 8,167 metres by the north-east ridge. The seventh-highest mountain, climbed from a base camp with no village anywhere near it, and a reputation for wind that ends most attempts.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Ashwini Chaudhary on Unsplash

Duration
45 days
Distance
120 km
Max altitude
8,167 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Apr–May
Cost
$18,000–$42,000

Overview

Dhaulagiri I is 8,167 metres, the seventh-highest mountain in the world, standing alone at the head of the Kali Gandaki. Forty-five days: six of them walking in through a gorge with no lodges, and a great many of them waiting at base camp for the wind to stop.

The mountain's problem

Dhaulagiri has nothing around it. Annapurna is across the deepest gorge on earth; on every other side the land falls away. The north-east ridge is exposed along its entire length, and the wind on it — not the difficulty of the climbing — is what turns most parties back.

The approach

Up the Myagdi Khola from Darbang: steep, forested, landslide-prone, and without lodges once past Boghara. Six days to Italian base camp, three more along the Chonbarden glacier to base camp at 4,750 m.

The way out

The classic exit crosses French Pass at 5,360 m into the Hidden Valley, then the Dhampus Pass down to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki — one of the best finishes to any expedition in Nepal. Teams short of time fly out instead.

What it costs

USD 18,000 to 42,000. The royalty is USD 1,800; the expense is a fully carried approach, four camps on an exposed face, and the long wait the mountain demands.

Day by day

The 45 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu — briefing and load-out

    Ministry briefing, permits, packing

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Kathmandu to Darbang

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Pokhara → Beni → Darbang (1,110 m)

    Walking
    10 hours by road
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,110 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Darbang
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    Darbang to Italian base camp

    Darbang (1,110 m) → Muri → Boghara → Italian base camp (3,660 m)

    Walking
    6 days
    Altitude
    1,110 m → 3,660 m
    Elevation
    +2550 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A committing walk-in through the Myagdi Khola gorge — steep, forested, landslide-prone and with no lodges once past Boghara. Everything is carried.

  4. Day 4

    Italian base camp to Dhaulagiri base camp

    Italian base camp (3,660 m) → Japanese camp → base camp (4,750 m)

    Walking
    3 days
    Altitude
    3,660 m → 4,750 m
    Elevation
    +1090 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • The Chonbarden glacier
    • Dhaulagiri's north-east face
  5. Day 5

    Base camp — puja, skills, rest

    Base camp (4,750 m)

    Altitude
    4,750 m → 4,750 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    First rotation — camp one

    Base camp (4,750 m) → camp one (5,900 m) → base camp

    Altitude
    4,750 m → 4,750 m
    Elevation
    +1150 m / −1150 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  7. Day 7

    Second rotation — camp two

    Base camp → camp one → camp two (6,400 m) → base camp

    Walking
    4 days
    Altitude
    4,750 m → 4,750 m
    Elevation
    +1650 m / −1650 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  8. Day 8

    Third rotation — camp three

    Base camp → camp two → camp three (7,200 m) → base camp

    Walking
    5 days
    Altitude
    4,750 m → 4,750 m
    Elevation
    +2450 m / −2450 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  9. Day 9

    Base camp — rest and the wait

    Base camp (4,750 m)

    Altitude
    4,750 m → 4,750 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Dhaulagiri stands alone at the head of the Kali Gandaki with nothing to shelter it. Teams wait a long time here for the wind to drop.

  10. Day 10

    Summit push to camp three

    Base camp (4,750 m) → camp two → camp three (7,200 m)

    Walking
    3 days
    Altitude
    4,750 m → 7,200 m
    Elevation
    +2450 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp three
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  11. Day 11

    Summit day

    Camp three (7,200 m) → north-east ridge → Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) → camp two

    Walking
    14–18 hours
    Altitude
    7,200 m → 6,400 m
    Elevation
    +967 m / −1767 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp two
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A long exposed ridge of snow and ice, fixed on the steeper sections, with the summit a broad plateau. The ridge is where the wind is, and where most attempts turn back.

    • The north-east ridge
    • Annapurna across the Kali Gandaki
  12. Day 12

    Descent and clear-up

    Camp two (6,400 m) → base camp (4,750 m)

    Walking
    2 days
    Altitude
    6,400 m → 4,750 m
    Elevation
    −1650 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  13. Day 13

    Out over French Pass and Dhampus Pass to Marpha

    Base camp (4,750 m) → French Pass (5,360 m) → Hidden Valley → Marpha (2,670 m)

    Walking
    4 days
    Altitude
    4,750 m → 2,670 m
    Elevation
    +610 m / −2690 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps, then lodge
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The classic exit — over two high passes into the Hidden Valley and down to the Kali Gandaki. Teams short of time fly out from base camp instead.

    • French Pass
    • Hidden Valley
    • Dhampus Pass
  14. Day 14

    Marpha to Pokhara and Kathmandu

    Marpha (2,670 m) → Jomsom → Pokhara → Kathmandu

    Altitude
    2,670 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

What makes Dhaulagiri hard?
Wind, mostly. It stands alone at the head of the Kali Gandaki with nothing around to shelter it, and the north-east ridge is fully exposed for its whole length. The climbing is not technically severe by eight-thousander standards; the conditions on the ridge are what end attempts.
How remote is the approach?
Seriously remote. Past Boghara in the Myagdi Khola there are no lodges and no villages — everything is carried, the gorge is landslide-prone, and it is six days to Italian base camp before the mountain even begins.
Is the walk out over French Pass worth it?
It is one of the finest exits in Nepal — French Pass at 5,360 m, the Hidden Valley, then Dhampus Pass and down to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki. Teams short of time or energy fly out from base camp instead, and miss it.
How does it compare with Manaslu?
Harder in every practical sense. The approach is longer and unsupported, base camp is further from help, the ridge is more exposed and the summit rate is lower. Manaslu is a first eight-thousander; Dhaulagiri generally is not.
When should you go?
Spring — April and May — when the ridge has its best chance of a calm spell. Autumn is permitted at half royalty and rarely attempted commercially.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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