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The snow dome of Dhaulagiri I above the ridges of the Myagdi valley

Trek · Nepal

Dhaulagiri Circuit

Fifteen days round the seventh-highest mountain on earth, over two passes above 5,000 metres and through an uninhabited valley — camping the whole way, because there is nobody up there to run a lodge.

By Tom Eriksen

Photo by Shreyashka Maharjan on Unsplash

Duration
15 days
Distance
123 km
Max altitude
5,360 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Apr–May · Oct
Cost
$1,800–$3,200

Overview

Dhaulagiri means "white mountain". At 8,167 metres it is the seventh-highest on earth and, for thirty years after its survey in 1808, was believed to be the highest anywhere. It stands directly opposite Annapurna I across the Kali Gandaki, and the seven vertical kilometres between the two make that gorge the deepest in the world.

The circuit round it is the hardest thing on Trek Heaven that does not involve climbing.

Why it is different

Nepal's famous treks are teahouse treks: you walk between villages and sleep in lodges. There are no villages on the middle of this route. Above Boghara there is nothing permanent until Yak Kharka, nine days later on the far side of two passes.

So everything is carried — tents, food, fuel, a cook, a crew. That is why it costs what it costs, and why the group you walk with is larger than you are.

The route

Up the Myagdi Khola through Magar villages and then birch and bamboo gorge to Italian Base Camp at 3,660 m. Onto the Chhonbardan Glacier — moraine, then ice, then Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4,740 m directly under the north face.

French Pass, 5,360 m, is the crux: a pre-dawn start, usually on snow, into Hidden Valley — a flat uninhabited basin at 5,050 m where you camp one very cold night.

Then Dhampus Pass and a 1,580-metre descent to Yak Kharka, and down to Marpha in the Kali Gandaki, where there are beds, hot water and apple brandy.

What it asks

Crampons and a rope on the glacier. Cold camps at 5,000 m. Nine days with no resupply and no quick way out. Two passes that close for snow.

It is not technical, but it is a long way from a lodge, and it should not be a first Himalayan trek.

Best season

Late April to mid May and October, and that is the whole list. French Pass holds spring snow late and takes autumn snow early, so the windows are narrow at both ends. Never in winter.

Day by day

The 15 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Pokhara to Darbang

    Pokhara (822 m) → Beni → Darbang (1,110 m)

    Walking
    5 hours by road
    Altitude
    822 m → 1,110 m
    Sleep
    Guesthouse, Darbang
    Meals
    Lunch, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Darbang to Dharapani

    Darbang (1,110 m) → Dharapani (1,560 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    1,110 m → 1,560 m
    Elevation
    +600 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Dharapani
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    Dharapani to Muri

    Dharapani (1,560 m) → Muri (1,850 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    1,560 m → 1,850 m
    Elevation
    +700 m / −400 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Muri
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Magar villages
    • First Dhaulagiri view
  4. Day 4

    Muri to Boghara

    Muri (1,850 m) → Boghara (2,080 m)

    Distance
    13 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    1,850 m → 2,080 m
    Elevation
    +800 m / −570 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Boghara
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The last permanently inhabited village. Everything above this point is carried.

  5. Day 5

    Boghara to Dobang

    Boghara (2,080 m) → Dobang (2,520 m)

    Distance
    11 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    2,080 m → 2,520 m
    Elevation
    +600 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Dobang
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    Dobang to Choriban Khola

    Dobang (2,520 m) → Choriban Khola (3,110 m)

    Distance
    9 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    2,520 m → 3,110 m
    Elevation
    +590 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Choriban Khola
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Bamboo and birch forest
    • Myagdi Khola gorge
  7. Day 7

    Choriban Khola to Italian Base Camp

    Choriban Khola (3,110 m) → Italian Base Camp (3,660 m)

    Distance
    8 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,110 m → 3,660 m
    Elevation
    +550 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Italian Base Camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Dhaulagiri south face
  8. Day 8

    Acclimatisation at Italian Base Camp

    Italian Base Camp (3,660 m)

    Walking
    4 hours
    Altitude
    3,660 m → 3,660 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Italian Base Camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A necessary rest day, with a walk high toward the glacier and a return to sleep low. The next four days are all above 4,000 m.

  9. Day 9

    Italian Base Camp to Glacier Camp

    Italian Base Camp (3,660 m) → Glacier Camp (4,210 m)

    Distance
    7 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,660 m → 4,210 m
    Elevation
    +550 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Glacier Camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Onto the Chhonbardan Glacier. Loose moraine and, depending on the season, the first crampon section.

  10. Day 10

    Glacier Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp

    Glacier Camp (4,210 m) → Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,740 m)

    Distance
    8 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    4,210 m → 4,740 m
    Elevation
    +530 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Dhaulagiri Base Camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Dhaulagiri north face
    • Tukuche Peak
    • The icefall
  11. Day 11

    Rest day at base camp

    Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,740 m)

    Walking
    3 hours
    Altitude
    4,740 m → 4,740 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Dhaulagiri Base Camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Acclimatisation and a weather day in hand. French Pass is the crux and should not be attempted on a marginal forecast.

  12. Day 12

    Base Camp over French Pass to Hidden Valley

    Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,740 m) → French Pass (5,360 m) → Hidden Valley (5,050 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    8 hours
    Altitude
    4,740 m → 5,050 m
    Elevation
    +620 m / −310 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Hidden Valley
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The crux day. A pre-dawn start, snow underfoot most seasons, and a camp at 5,050 m in a valley with no inhabitants and no shelter. It is very cold.

    • French Pass at 5
    • 360 m
    • Hidden Valley
    • Sita Chuchura and Tashi Kang
  13. Day 13

    Hidden Valley over Dhampus Pass to Yak Kharka

    Hidden Valley (5,050 m) → Dhampus Pass (5,258 m) → Yak Kharka (3,680 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    8 hours
    Altitude
    5,050 m → 3,680 m
    Elevation
    +210 m / −1580 m
    Sleep
    Camp, Yak Kharka
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A short climb and then a very long descent — 1,580 metres, much of it on loose scree. Hard on the knees and the longest drop of the trek.

    • Dhampus Pass
    • The Kali Gandaki opening below
  14. Day 14

    Yak Kharka to Marpha

    Yak Kharka (3,680 m) → Marpha (2,670 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,680 m → 2,670 m
    Elevation
    −1010 m
    Sleep
    Guesthouse, Marpha
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Back among people, on a road, in a village with beds and hot showers. The contrast after nine days of tents is considerable.

    • Marpha's whitewashed lanes
    • Apple orchards and brandy
  15. Day 15

    Marpha to Jomsom, fly or drive to Pokhara

    Marpha (2,670 m) → Jomsom (2,720 m) → Pokhara (822 m)

    Distance
    7 km
    Walking
    2 hours walking, then flight or jeep
    Altitude
    2,670 m → 822 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Pokhara
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

Why is there no teahouse version?
Because there is nobody living on the middle third of the route. Above Boghara there are no permanent settlements until Yak Kharka on the far side of Dhampus Pass — nine days of uninhabited country. Everything is carried, and the cost of a crew is most of the price.
Do you need technical skills?
Not technical climbing, but you will use crampons on the Chhonbardan Glacier and rope up in some conditions. Anyone who has done a teahouse trek to 5,000 m and is comfortable with a cold camp will manage. Anyone who has not should do Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit first.
When can it be walked?
A narrow window: late April to mid May, and October. French Pass holds snow into late spring and closes early in autumn, and the pre-monsoon and post-monsoon shoulders are the only reliable periods. It is not a winter trek under any circumstances.
What is Hidden Valley like?
A wide, flat, entirely uninhabited basin above 5,000 m between the two passes, ringed by Sita Chuchura, Tashi Kang and Hidden Peak. You camp there one night. It is one of the coldest and strangest places you can sleep in Nepal.
Is there a bail-out?
Not a quick one. Past Italian Base Camp the only ways out are forward over French Pass or back down the way you came, several days either direction. Helicopter evacuation insurance from 5,000 m is essential, not optional.
What is the Dhaulagiri Circuit trek?
The Dhaulagiri Circuit trek is a challenging and remote trekking adventure in Nepal that circumnavigates the Dhaulagiri massif, one of the world's highest mountain peaks. The trek offers trekkers the opportunity to explore pristine and less-visited regions, experience diverse landscapes, and enjoy breathtaking mountain views. Here's an overview of the Dhaulagiri Circuit trek: Key Highlights: Dhaulagiri Massif: The Dhaulagiri massif is home to Dhaulagiri I, which is the seventh-highest mountain in the world at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet). The trek takes you around this towering mountain and provides stunning views of Dhaulagiri and other peaks in the Annapurna and Mustang regions.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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