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Tents pitched high on a snow-covered mountain

Trek · Nepal

Makalu Expedition

Fifty days to 8,485 metres by the north-west ridge. The fifth-highest mountain and one of the hardest of the fourteen — a rock summit pyramid climbed at 8,400 metres, in a valley almost nobody visits.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Jack Prommel on Unsplash

Duration
50 days
Distance
140 km
Max altitude
8,485 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Apr–May
Cost
$20,000–$45,000

Overview

Makalu is 8,485 metres, the fifth-highest mountain on earth, and one of the hardest of the fourteen. Fifty days, six of them just walking into the Barun — a valley so little visited that the approach alone would be a serious trek.

The crux

Above camp four the French Couloir leads to the base of Makalu's summit pyramid: steep rock and mixed ground, climbed on fixed rope at over 8,400 metres.

That is the whole story of the mountain. It asks for technical climbing at an altitude where most people can barely think, and it is why the summit rate here is among the lowest of the eight-thousanders. Plenty of expeditions reach the couloir and turn round.

The approach

Fly to Tumlingtar at 400 m, jeep to Num, then six days over the Shipton La into the Barun valley — no lodges past Yangle Kharka, and nothing at all above it. Base camp is at 4,870 m.

Who it is for

Experienced eight-thousander climbers who are genuinely competent on technical ground. It is a poor first and an unforgiving second.

What it costs

USD 20,000 to 45,000. Royalty USD 1,800 — the rest is a long unsupported approach, four camps, oxygen, and a helicopter out of one of the remotest valleys in the country.

Day by day

The 50 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu — briefing and load-out

    Ministry briefing, permits, packing

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Kathmandu to Num

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Tumlingtar (400 m) → Num (1,560 m)

    Walking
    45 minutes by air, then 5 hours by jeep
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,560 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Num
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    Num to Yangle Kharka

    Num (1,560 m) → Seduwa → Tashigaon → Shipton La → Yangle Kharka (3,600 m)

    Walking
    6 days
    Altitude
    1,560 m → 3,600 m
    Elevation
    +3500 m / −1400 m
    Sleep
    Basic lodges and camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A hard walk-in over the Shipton La and into the Barun — one of the least visited valleys in Nepal, and the reason a Makalu expedition feels genuinely expeditionary before the climbing starts.

    • The Shipton La
    • Entering the Barun valley
  4. Day 4

    Yangle Kharka to Makalu base camp

    Yangle Kharka (3,600 m) → Langmale → base camp (4,870 m)

    Walking
    3 days
    Altitude
    3,600 m → 4,870 m
    Elevation
    +1270 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  5. Day 5

    Base camp — puja, skills, rest

    Base camp (4,870 m)

    Altitude
    4,870 m → 4,870 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    First rotation — advanced base and camp one

    Base camp (4,870 m) → ABC (5,700 m) → camp one (6,400 m) → base camp

    Walking
    4 days
    Altitude
    4,870 m → 4,870 m
    Elevation
    +1530 m / −1530 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  7. Day 7

    Second rotation — camp two

    Base camp → camp one → camp two (6,700 m) → base camp

    Walking
    5 days
    Altitude
    4,870 m → 4,870 m
    Elevation
    +1830 m / −1830 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  8. Day 8

    Third rotation — camp three

    Base camp → camp two → camp three (7,400 m) → base camp

    Walking
    6 days
    Altitude
    4,870 m → 4,870 m
    Elevation
    +2530 m / −2530 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  9. Day 9

    Base camp — rest and weather window

    Base camp (4,870 m)

    Altitude
    4,870 m → 4,870 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  10. Day 10

    Summit push to camp four

    Base camp (4,870 m) → camp three → camp four (7,800 m)

    Walking
    4 days
    Altitude
    4,870 m → 7,800 m
    Elevation
    +2930 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp four
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  11. Day 11

    Summit day — the French Couloir and the summit pyramid

    Camp four (7,800 m) → French Couloir → Makalu (8,485 m) → camp three

    Walking
    14–18 hours
    Altitude
    7,800 m → 7,400 m
    Elevation
    +685 m / −1085 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp three
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The couloir leads to the base of a steep rock and mixed pyramid, climbed on fixed rope at over 8,400 metres. This is the crux and it is why Makalu's summit rate is among the lowest of the eight-thousanders — technical ground where you are least able to deal with it.

    • The French Couloir
    • The rock summit pyramid
    • Everest and Lhotse to the west
  12. Day 12

    Descent and clear-up

    Camp three (7,400 m) → base camp (4,870 m)

    Walking
    2–3 days
    Altitude
    7,400 m → 4,870 m
    Elevation
    −2530 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  13. Day 13

    Base camp out, and reserve days

    Base camp (4,870 m) → Tumlingtar, on foot or by helicopter

    Walking
    7 days on foot
    Altitude
    4,870 m → 400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

Why is Makalu's summit rate so low?
The summit pyramid. Above the French Couloir the mountain rears into steep rock and mixed ground that has to be climbed on fixed rope above 8,400 metres — real technical climbing at an altitude where most people can barely function. Many expeditions reach the couloir and go no further.
How does it compare with Everest?
Lower by 364 metres and considerably harder. Everest's south side is a long walk with fixed rope; Makalu asks you to climb steep rock in the death zone. It also has none of Everest's infrastructure — far fewer teams, far less trail-breaking done for you.
How remote is the approach?
The Barun is one of the least visited valleys in Nepal. It is six days over the Shipton La from the road at Num before base camp is even in sight, and there is no lodge network past Yangle Kharka. Most teams fly out by helicopter.
Who should attempt it?
Experienced eight-thousander climbers who are competent on technical ground. It is a poor first eight-thousander and an unforgiving second one.
When should you go?
Spring, April and May. The summit pyramid needs to be relatively clear of snow and the wind needs to drop, and that combination is rare enough that whole seasons pass without many summits.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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