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Trek · Everest Region

Everest Expedition — South Col

Sixty-two days on the south side of the highest mountain on earth, through the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm to the South Col. The most attempted 8,849 metres in the world, and still the most consequential.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Aditya Chache on Unsplash

Duration
62 days
Distance
160 km
Max altitude
8,849 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Apr–May
Cost
$45,000–$120,000

Overview

Everest is 8,849 metres, and the South Col route from Nepal is the most attempted line on it. Sixty-two days: a slow walk in, six weeks of rotations through the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm, and — if the jet stream lifts — one night walking up the south-east ridge.

The route

Base camp sits at 5,364 m on the Khumbu glacier. Above it the Icefall, a moving cascade of ice crossed on ladders in the dark, and the most dangerous ground on the mountain. Camp one at 6,065 m, then the Western Cwm to camp two at 6,400 m.

The Lhotse Face — blue ice at 40 to 50 degrees, fixed throughout — leads to camp three at 7,200 m, and the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur to the South Col at 7,950 m. That is the death zone: nobody acclimatises there.

Summit day starts at 9 or 10 at night, for the Balcony, the South Summit and the step below the top.

What it really requires

Nepal requires a previous 7,000-metre Nepali summit before it will issue the permit. Any operator worth using asks for more — a prior eight-thousander, or a seven-thousander plus something technical like Ama Dablam.

Where the money goes

The USD 15,000 royalty is a small part of it. The rest is oxygen from 7,200 m, one or two climbing Sherpas per client, four stocked camps, two months of wages and food, helicopters and insurance. The gap between a USD 45,000 place and a USD 120,000 one is mostly oxygen supply and the client-to-Sherpa ratio — which is exactly where the safety margin sits.

Permit rules and royalties are revised periodically. Confirm the current position before committing.

Day by day

The 62 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu — briefing, permits and gear

    Ministry briefing, medical checks, expedition load-out

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Kathmandu to Lukla, and the walk in begins

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Lukla (2,860 m) → Phakding (2,610 m)

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 2,610 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Phakding
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    The Khumbu approach — Namche, Tengboche, Dingboche

    Phakding (2,610 m) → Namche (3,440 m) → Tengboche → Dingboche (4,410 m)

    Walking
    6 days with acclimatisation
    Altitude
    2,610 m → 4,410 m
    Elevation
    +1800 m
    Sleep
    Lodges
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The standard Base Camp trek, walked slowly and deliberately. Expeditions take longer over it than trekkers do — the acclimatisation earned here is the foundation of everything above.

  4. Day 4

    Dingboche to Lobuche to Everest Base Camp

    Dingboche (4,410 m) → Lobuche (4,940 m) → Base Camp (5,364 m)

    Walking
    3 days
    Altitude
    4,410 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +954 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Arrival at base camp on the Khumbu glacier
  5. Day 5

    Base camp — puja, and settling in

    Base camp (5,364 m); the puja precedes any climbing

    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Base camp is a small town on a moving glacier. Nobody enters the Icefall until the puja is done and the Icefall Doctors have fixed the route.

  6. Day 6

    Icefall training and the first rotation

    Base camp (5,364 m) → camp one (6,065 m) → base camp

    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +700 m / −700 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The Icefall is the most dangerous ground on the route and it is crossed many times. Teams move through it in the cold hours before dawn, when the ice is least active.

    • Ladder crossings in the Khumbu Icefall
  7. Day 7

    Second rotation — camp one and camp two

    Base camp → camp one (6,065 m) → camp two (6,400 m) → base camp

    Walking
    4–5 days
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +1036 m / −1036 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • The Western Cwm
    • Nuptse and Lhotse walls
  8. Day 8

    Third rotation — the Lhotse Face to camp three

    Base camp → camp two → camp three (7,200 m) → base camp

    Walking
    5–6 days
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +1836 m / −1836 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The Lhotse Face is blue ice at around 40 to 50 degrees, fixed throughout. A night at camp three, usually on oxygen, is the last acclimatisation before the summit push.

  9. Day 9

    Base camp — rest and the wait for a window

    Base camp (5,364 m); often ten days or more

    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Most of an Everest expedition is spent waiting at base camp for the jet stream to lift off the summit. Teams descend to Pheriche or Deboche to recover in thicker air.

  10. Day 10

    Summit push — base camp to camp two

    Base camp (5,364 m) → camp two (6,400 m)

    Walking
    2 days
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 6,400 m
    Elevation
    +1036 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp two
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  11. Day 11

    Camp two to camp three

    Camp two (6,400 m) → camp three (7,200 m)

    Walking
    5–6 hours
    Altitude
    6,400 m → 7,200 m
    Elevation
    +800 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp three
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  12. Day 12

    Camp three to the South Col

    Camp three (7,200 m) → Yellow Band → Geneva Spur → South Col (7,950 m)

    Walking
    6–7 hours
    Altitude
    7,200 m → 7,950 m
    Elevation
    +750 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp four, South Col
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    On oxygen from camp three for most climbers. The South Col at 7,950 m is inside the death zone — nobody acclimatises here, they only lose ground.

    • The Yellow Band
    • The Geneva Spur
    • The South Col
  13. Day 13

    Summit day

    South Col (7,950 m) → Balcony → South Summit → Everest (8,849 m) → South Col

    Walking
    14–18 hours
    Altitude
    7,950 m → 7,950 m
    Elevation
    +899 m / −899 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp four
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Away around 9 or 10 at night. Snow slopes to the Balcony at 8,400 m, the south-east ridge to the South Summit, then the traverse and the step below the summit. Turnaround times are set before you leave and exist to be obeyed.

    • The Balcony
    • The South Summit
    • The Hillary Step
    • The summit
  14. Day 14

    Descent to camp two and base camp

    South Col (7,950 m) → camp two (6,400 m) → base camp (5,364 m)

    Walking
    2 days
    Altitude
    7,950 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    −2586 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    More people die descending than climbing. The Icefall one last time, at the end of everything, is where exhaustion meets the most dangerous ground on the mountain.

  15. Day 15

    Base camp to Lukla, and reserve days

    Base camp (5,364 m) → Lukla (2,860 m), on foot or by helicopter

    Walking
    3 days on foot
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 2,860 m
    Elevation
    −2504 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Lukla
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The remaining days of the sixty-two are reserve — for the weather window, a second attempt, and the flights.

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

What does the permit actually cost?
The royalty for the standard spring season on the south side is USD 15,000 per climber, raised from USD 11,000 with effect from September 2025. On top sit the national park and municipality fees, the liaison officer, a garbage deposit and a share of the Icefall Doctors' route-fixing costs. The royalty is a small fraction of the total.
Why does it cost USD 45,000 to 120,000?
Oxygen, Sherpa support, and time. A supported climb needs bottled oxygen from around 7,200 m, one or two climbing Sherpas per client, four stocked camps, two months of crew wages and food, helicopter logistics and insurance. The spread between the cheapest and dearest operators is mostly the oxygen supply and the client-to-Sherpa ratio — which is exactly where the safety margin lives.
What experience is required?
Nepal now requires applicants to have summited a Nepali peak above 7,000 m before an Everest permit, and any serious operator asks for more than the legal minimum. Realistically: a previous eight-thousander, or at least a seven-thousander plus a technical 6,000-metre peak like Ama Dablam.
What is the most dangerous part?
The Khumbu Icefall, statistically — a moving glacier crossed on ladders, many times, with seracs above it. The 2014 avalanche there killed sixteen Nepali workers. The death zone above the South Col is where exhaustion, oxygen failure and bad turnaround decisions accumulate.
Is autumn possible?
Legally yes, at half royalty, and practically almost never. The post-monsoon snowpack makes the Lhotse Face and the Icefall far more dangerous, and there is no fixed-rope infrastructure or Icefall Doctor route outside spring. Effectively this is an April–May mountain.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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