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A snow-covered range under a partly clouded sky

Trek · Manaslu Region

Manaslu Expedition

Forty-five days to 8,163 metres, the eight-thousander most often climbed first. Moderate ground and a walk-in approach — set against an avalanche record that deserves more respect than the brochures give it.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Pankaj Dobriyal on Unsplash

Duration
45 days
Distance
130 km
Max altitude
8,163 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Sep–Oct
Cost
$16,000–$40,000

Overview

Manaslu is 8,163 metres, the eighth-highest mountain in the world, and the one most people climb first. The angles are moderate, there is no technical crux, and the six-day walk-in from the road does the acclimatisation that a flight to altitude cannot.

The approach

Up the Budhi Gandaki from Machha Khola at 900 m to Samagaon at 3,530 m — a long, humid gorge walk gaining 2,600 metres over six days. Base camp is at 4,800 m above the village, with four camps on the north-east face above it.

The part the brochures skip

"Easiest eight-thousander" describes the gradient, not the danger. The route runs beneath serac-threatened slopes, and the mountain has a genuine avalanche record — the 2012 slide that hit camp three killed eleven climbers, and there have been fatal avalanches since. Autumn's fresh monsoon snow is exactly what makes it so.

The summit question

For years many climbers stopped at a fore-summit on the plateau, short of the true corniced pinnacle, and were credited with the ascent. Records have since been revisited and ascents reclassified. Ask your operator, in writing, whether the fixed rope reaches the true summit.

What it costs

USD 16,000 to 40,000. The royalty is USD 1,800 and the paperwork is unusually heavy — a restricted-area permit and two conservation-area permits on top of the climbing royalty and liaison officer.

Day by day

The 45 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu — briefing and load-out

    Ministry briefing, permits, expedition packing

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Kathmandu to Machha Khola

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Machha Khola (900 m)

    Walking
    8 hours by jeep
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 900 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Machha Khola
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    The Budhi Gandaki to Samagaon

    Machha Khola (900 m) → Jagat → Deng → Namrung → Samagaon (3,530 m)

    Walking
    6 days
    Altitude
    900 m → 3,530 m
    Elevation
    +2630 m
    Sleep
    Lodges
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A long, low, humid walk-in up a gorge, gaining 2,600 metres over six days. Unlike Everest there is no flight to altitude — the approach itself does the first half of the acclimatisation.

  4. Day 4

    Samagaon — acclimatisation

    Samagaon (3,530 m) → Birendra Tal and Pungyen Gompa → Samagaon

    Walking
    2 days
    Altitude
    3,530 m → 3,530 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Samagaon
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  5. Day 5

    Samagaon to base camp

    Samagaon (3,530 m) → base camp (4,800 m)

    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,530 m → 4,800 m
    Elevation
    +1270 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    Base camp — puja, skills and rest

    Base camp (4,800 m)

    Altitude
    4,800 m → 4,800 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  7. Day 7

    First rotation — camp one

    Base camp (4,800 m) → camp one (5,700 m) → base camp

    Altitude
    4,800 m → 4,800 m
    Elevation
    +900 m / −900 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • The crevassed lower glacier
  8. Day 8

    Second rotation — camp two

    Base camp → camp one → camp two (6,400 m) → base camp

    Walking
    4 days
    Altitude
    4,800 m → 4,800 m
    Elevation
    +1600 m / −1600 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  9. Day 9

    Third rotation — camp three

    Base camp → camp two → camp three (6,800 m) → base camp

    Walking
    5 days
    Altitude
    4,800 m → 4,800 m
    Elevation
    +2000 m / −2000 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  10. Day 10

    Base camp — rest and weather window

    Base camp (4,800 m)

    Altitude
    4,800 m → 4,800 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  11. Day 11

    Summit push to camp four

    Base camp (4,800 m) → camp two → camp three → camp four (7,400 m)

    Walking
    4 days
    Altitude
    4,800 m → 7,400 m
    Elevation
    +2600 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp four
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  12. Day 12

    Summit day

    Camp four (7,400 m) → Manaslu (8,163 m) → camp three

    Walking
    12–16 hours
    Altitude
    7,400 m → 6,800 m
    Elevation
    +763 m / −1363 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp three
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A long snow plateau leads to a narrow corniced pinnacle — the true summit. Many parties historically stopped at the fore-summit a few metres below and short of it, which is why Manaslu's summit statistics have been publicly disputed.

    • The summit plateau
    • The final corniced pinnacle
  13. Day 13

    Descent to base camp and Samagaon

    Camp three (6,800 m) → base camp → Samagaon (3,530 m)

    Walking
    2 days
    Altitude
    6,800 m → 3,530 m
    Elevation
    −3270 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Samagaon
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  14. Day 14

    Samagaon out, and reserve days

    Samagaon (3,530 m) → Kathmandu, by helicopter or on foot

    Walking
    25 minutes by air, or 5 days walking
    Altitude
    3,530 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

Why is Manaslu the usual first eight-thousander?
Moderate angles, no technical crux, a walk-in approach that acclimatises you properly instead of flying you to altitude, and an autumn season that does not compete with Everest for Sherpa staff. It is also considerably cheaper than Everest at USD 1,800 royalty.
How dangerous is it?
More than its reputation. The route runs under serac-threatened slopes and the mountain has a real avalanche record — the 2012 avalanche at camp three killed eleven climbers, and there have been fatal slides since. "Easiest eight-thousander" describes the angle of the snow, not the risk.
What is the summit controversy?
For years many climbers stopped at a fore-summit on the plateau, a few metres lower and some distance short of the true corniced pinnacle, and were credited with the summit. Records have since been revisited and a number of ascents reclassified. Ask any operator explicitly whether they fix rope to the true summit.
Do you need a restricted-area permit as well?
Yes. The Manaslu region is restricted, so the trek in requires that permit alongside the Manaslu and Annapurna Conservation Area permits and the climbing royalty. It is one of the more paperwork-heavy expeditions in Nepal.
When should you go?
Autumn — September and October. Manaslu is overwhelmingly a post-monsoon mountain, which is part of its appeal: it fills the gap in the calendar left by spring Everest. Fresh monsoon snow on the upper mountain is also what makes the avalanche risk real.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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