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Kanchenjunga's summit ridge lit orange at sunrise

Trek · Nepal

Kanchenjunga Base Camp Trek

Nepal's longest serious teahouse trek, to both base camps of the world's third-highest mountain. Three weeks, two 5,000-metre viewpoints, four passes in a day, and almost nobody else on the trail.

By Maya Thapa

Photo by Chirag Malik on Unsplash

Duration
21 days
Distance
240 km
Max altitude
5,143 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Mar–May · Oct–Nov
Cost
$2,000–$3,500

Overview

Kanchenjunga is the third-highest mountain on earth at 8,586 metres, sitting on the Nepal–Sikkim border in the far east of the country. Getting to the trailhead takes two days from Kathmandu. Walking the circuit takes three weeks. In return you get a Himalayan trek that still looks the way the Khumbu did forty years ago.

Around a few hundred trekkers a year walk it. Everest Base Camp takes thirty thousand.

The two base camps

The massif has a base camp on each side and the full circuit visits both.

Pangpema, the north base camp at 5,143 m, is the classic: a flat shelf above the Kanchenjunga Glacier with the entire north face rising in front of it. The approach up the Ghunsa valley passes beneath Jannu's north wall, which is arguably the more startling mountain of the two.

Oktang, the south base camp at about 4,730 m, is reached up the Yalung Glacier from Ramche and faces the south-west face and the long summit ridge.

Between them lies the Sele La — not one pass but four, crossed in a single nine-hour day between 4,480 m and 4,660 m. It is the crux of the circuit and the part most likely to be closed by snow.

Getting there

Fly Kathmandu to Bhadrapur in the eastern Terai, then eight to ten hours by road north through the Ilam tea hills to Taplejung. Suketar airstrip above Taplejung exists but operates unreliably; do not build an itinerary around it.

Budget a spare day at each end. The Bhadrapur flight and the road are both weather-dependent.

Permits and rules

Restricted area, and the rules are enforced. The permit is issued only through a registered trekking agency, requires a licensed guide throughout, and requires a minimum of two trekkers — a rule that has not been relaxed here the way it has elsewhere. A separate Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit is needed on top.

Practicalities

Lodges are simple and thin on the ground. Lhonak, Sele Le and Ramche have one or two huts apiece, so a large group ahead of you is a real problem in October. There is no reliable charging above Ghunsa, no ATM after Taplejung, and no helicopter evacuation guarantee — insurance covering evacuation from 5,200 m in a remote region is essential rather than advisable.

Bring a sleeping bag good to about -15°C. The high camps are cold and unheated.

Best season

October and November for the most stable weather and the clearest views, and April and May for rhododendron through the lower valleys, at the cost of more haze up high. Spring carries a higher chance that the Sele La is still under snow. The monsoon closes the whole thing — the lower trail is leech country and the road to Taplejung washes out.

Day by day

The 21 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu to Bhadrapur, drive to Taplejung

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Bhadrapur (91 m) → Taplejung (1,820 m)

    Walking
    45 min flight, 8–10 hours by road
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,820 m
    Sleep
    Guesthouse, Taplejung
    Meals
    Lunch, dinner

    A short flight to the eastern Terai and then a very long day of mountain road north. Many itineraries break the drive at Ilam, in the tea country.

  2. Day 2

    Taplejung to Chirwa

    Taplejung (1,820 m) → Mitlung → Chirwa (1,270 m)

    Distance
    20 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    1,820 m → 1,270 m
    Elevation
    −700 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Chirwa
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Tamur river valley
    • Limbu villages
    • Cardamom plantations
  3. Day 3

    Chirwa to Sekathum

    Chirwa (1,270 m) → Tapethok → Sekathum (1,660 m)

    Distance
    15 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    1,270 m → 1,660 m
    Elevation
    +500 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Sekathum
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Permits are checked at Tapethok. At Sekathum the valley splits — north for Pangpema, east and south for the Yalung side.

  4. Day 4

    Sekathum to Amjilosa

    Sekathum (1,660 m) → Amjilosa (2,510 m)

    Distance
    11 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    1,660 m → 2,510 m
    Elevation
    +900 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Amjilosa
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A hard, steep day on an exposed trail above the Ghunsa Khola, with several suspension bridges and a long final climb.

  5. Day 5

    Amjilosa to Gyabla

    Amjilosa (2,510 m) → Gyabla (2,730 m)

    Distance
    11 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    2,510 m → 2,730 m
    Elevation
    +400 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Gyabla
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Waterfalls
    • Bamboo and fir forest
  6. Day 6

    Gyabla to Ghunsa

    Gyabla (2,730 m) → Phale → Ghunsa (3,595 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    2,730 m → 3,595 m
    Elevation
    +870 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Ghunsa
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Ghunsa is the largest settlement on the northern side and the hub of the trek — a Tibetan-speaking village with its own micro-hydro scheme.

    • Phale Tibetan refugee settlement
    • Ghunsa gompa
    • Micro-hydro village
  7. Day 7

    Ghunsa — acclimatisation day

    Ghunsa (3,595 m), day walk toward Yamatari

    Walking
    4 hours
    Altitude
    3,595 m → 3,595 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Ghunsa
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A necessary rest day. Walk high toward the Yamatari glacier viewpoint and sleep back in the village.

  8. Day 8

    Ghunsa to Kambachen

    Ghunsa (3,595 m) → Rampuk Kharka → Kambachen (4,050 m)

    Distance
    11 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,595 m → 4,050 m
    Elevation
    +460 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Kambachen
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The treeline is passed and Jannu's north face — one of the most formidable walls in the Himalaya — comes into view. One long, loose landslide traverse before Kambachen requires care.

    • Jannu (Kumbhakarna) north face
    • Landslide traverse
  9. Day 9

    Kambachen to Lhonak

    Kambachen (4,050 m) → Ramtang → Lhonak (4,780 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    4,050 m → 4,780 m
    Elevation
    +730 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Lhonak
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Onto the glacier moraine. Lhonak is a handful of huts on a dry lake bed — cold, high and exposed.

    • Ramtang monastery ruins
    • Kanchenjunga Glacier moraine
    • Wolf's Fang
  10. Day 10

    Lhonak to Pangpema and back

    Lhonak (4,780 m) → Pangpema / North Base Camp (5,143 m) → Lhonak

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    4,780 m → 4,780 m
    Elevation
    +370 m / −370 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Lhonak
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The northern climax. Pangpema at 5,143 m sits directly beneath the north face, with the whole 8,586-metre wall rising in front of you across the glacier. Many walk another hour above the camp for the wider view.

    • Kanchenjunga north face
    • Pangpema
    • Wedge Peak
    • Twins and Nepal Peak
  11. Day 11

    Lhonak to Ghunsa

    Lhonak (4,780 m) → Kambachen → Ghunsa (3,595 m)

    Distance
    21 km
    Walking
    8 hours
    Altitude
    4,780 m → 3,595 m
    Elevation
    −1190 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Ghunsa
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  12. Day 12

    Ghunsa to Sele La Camp

    Ghunsa (3,595 m) → Sele La Camp (4,290 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    3,595 m → 4,290 m
    Elevation
    +700 m
    Sleep
    Basic lodge, Sele Le
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A steep climb through rhododendron and juniper to a bleak camp below the pass line. Two huts, and often full.

  13. Day 13

    Sele La to Tseram over four passes

    Sele La Camp (4,290 m) → Sinion La (4,660 m) → Mirgin La (4,480 m) → Sinelapche La (4,646 m) → Tseram (3,870 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    9 hours
    Altitude
    4,290 m → 3,870 m
    Elevation
    +800 m / −1220 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Tseram
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The crux of the circuit and the longest day on it. A chain of four passes links the Ghunsa and Yalung valleys, with a big drop at the end. In snow this day can be impassable — the ridge is the one part of the trek where the weather can genuinely stop you.

    • Four passes in one day
    • Jannu from the south
    • Makalu and Everest on a clear day
  14. Day 14

    Tseram to Ramche

    Tseram (3,870 m) → Yalung Glacier → Ramche (4,580 m)

    Distance
    9 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,870 m → 4,580 m
    Elevation
    +710 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Ramche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Yalung Glacier
    • Rathong and Kabru
    • Blue sheep
  15. Day 15

    Ramche to Oktang and back to Tseram

    Ramche (4,580 m) → Oktang / South Base Camp (4,730 m) → Tseram (3,870 m)

    Distance
    16 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    4,580 m → 3,870 m
    Elevation
    +200 m / −910 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Tseram
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The southern climax: a prayer-flagged chorten at Oktang looking straight up the Yalung Glacier at the south-west face and the summit ridge.

    • Oktang chorten
    • Kanchenjunga south-west face
    • Yalung Glacier head
  16. Day 16

    Tseram to Torontan

    Tseram (3,870 m) → Lasiya Bhanjyang → Torontan (2,995 m)

    Distance
    16 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    3,870 m → 2,995 m
    Elevation
    −900 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Torontan
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  17. Day 17

    Torontan to Yamphudin

    Torontan (2,995 m) → Deurali → Yamphudin (2,080 m)

    Distance
    18 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    2,995 m → 2,080 m
    Elevation
    +400 m / −1300 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Yamphudin
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Back into farmland and mixed Limbu, Rai and Sherpa villages. Yamphudin is the first place with a road connection on the southern side.

  18. Day 18

    Yamphudin to Khebang

    Yamphudin (2,080 m) → Mamankhe → Khebang (1,910 m)

    Distance
    18 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    2,080 m → 1,910 m
    Elevation
    +500 m / −670 m
    Sleep
    Teahouse, Khebang
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  19. Day 19

    Khebang to Taplejung

    Khebang (1,910 m) → Happu Khola → Taplejung (1,820 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    4 hours walking, 2 hours by jeep
    Altitude
    1,910 m → 1,820 m
    Sleep
    Guesthouse, Taplejung
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  20. Day 20

    Taplejung to Bhadrapur

    Taplejung (1,820 m) → Ilam → Bhadrapur (91 m)

    Walking
    8–10 hours by road
    Altitude
    1,820 m → 91 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Bhadrapur
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Ilam tea gardens
  21. Day 21

    Bhadrapur to Kathmandu

    Bhadrapur (91 m) → Kathmandu (1,400 m)

    Walking
    45 minutes by air
    Altitude
    91 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

How hard is the Kanchenjunga trek?
Strenuous, and the hardest thing about it is length rather than any single obstacle. Three weeks of walking, several 7-to-9-hour days, and a nine-hour four-pass crossing at 4,600 m in the middle. There is no technical climbing, but there is nowhere to bail out quickly.
Do you have to visit both base camps?
No. A north-side-only trek to Pangpema and back takes about 16 days, and a south-side-only trek to Oktang about 14. The full circuit linking both over the Sele La is the better trek if you have the time, and only marginally more expensive.
What permits do you need?
A Kanchenjunga restricted-area permit — USD 20 per person per week for the first four weeks, then USD 25 — issued only through a registered agency, with a licensed guide and a minimum of two trekkers. A Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit costs NPR 3,000. Note the two-trekker rule is strictly enforced here.
What are the lodges like?
Basic. Plank walls, shared rooms, dal bhat, and no menus to speak of above Ghunsa. Lhonak, Sele Le and Ramche have only one or two huts each and can fill in peak season. Bring a warm sleeping bag rated to around -15°C and do not count on charging anything.
Can you see Everest from the trek?
On a clear morning from the passes on the Sele La day, yes — Everest, Lhotse and Makalu are visible to the west, about 130 km away. It is not a given, but it happens often in November.
What is the Kanchenjunga Base Camp trek?
The Kanchenjunga Base Camp trek is an extraordinary and remote trekking adventure that leads you to the base camp of Mount Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world (8,586 meters or 28,169 feet). This trek takes place in the far eastern part of Nepal, near the border with India, and offers trekkers a chance to explore unspoiled wilderness, diverse cultures, and breathtaking mountain vistas.
Can You Trek Kanchenjunga or Manaslu Without a Guide in 2025?
If you’re dreaming of an epic adventure in Nepal and wondering whether you can trek Kanchenjunga or Manaslu without a guide, let’s get straight to the point: No, you cannot. Both treks fall under Nepal’s Restricted Area Permit (RAP) regulations, meaning hiring a licensed guide is mandatory—even if you’re an experienced trekker who prefers going solo. Kanchenjunga and Manaslu both border Tibet and have long been restricted areas due to their remote nature, cultural sensitivity, and border security concerns. The Nepali government enforces guide requirements for safety, environmental conservation, and to regulate tourism in these areas.

About the author

Maya Thapa

Senior trekking writer

Maya has walked more than 4,000 kilometres of Nepal's trail network, from the teahouse highways of the Khumbu to the restricted valleys along the Tibetan border. She writes the route guides and day-by-day itineraries, and returns to most trails every second season to re-check lodge availability, water points and trail reroutes after monsoon damage.

Writes about: Nepal trekking · High-altitude routes · Teahouse logistics

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