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Roped climbers crossing blue glacier ice

Trek · Everest Region

Island Peak (Imja Tse)

Sixteen days to a 6,189-metre summit above the Imja glacier, the peak most people climb first. A headwall, a ridge and a fixed line — real mountaineering on a route that forgives a beginner.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Jackman Chiu on Unsplash

Duration
16 days
Distance
130 km
Max altitude
6,189 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Mar–May · Oct–Nov
Cost
$2,200–$4,000

Overview

Island Peak — Imja Tse on the maps — is 6,189 metres at the head of the Imja valley, and it is the mountain most people climb first in Nepal. Sixteen days, of which nine are the standard Khumbu acclimatisation walk and one is the climb.

It earns the reputation. The route has a real headwall, a real summit ridge and real exposure, but nothing on it demands technique you cannot be taught in an afternoon.

The climb

From base camp at 5,087 m, summit day starts between one and two in the morning. Rock and scree lead to the glacier, which is crossed roped up and, depending on the year, past a crevasse or two on ladders.

The headwall is the piece everyone remembers: a little over a hundred metres of fixed line at up to about 45 degrees, climbed on a jumar. Above it the ridge narrows to a boot-width crest with a long drop either side, and follows the snow to the top.

The view is Lhotse's south face directly above, with Nuptse, Makalu and Baruntse around it.

Who it suits

Anyone fit enough for a fourteen-hour day at altitude, with or without previous climbing. It is a poor choice for anyone who has not first walked at 5,000 metres — the acclimatisation built into these sixteen days is the minimum, not a generous allowance.

What it costs

USD 2,200 to 4,000. The NMA permit is USD 250 in spring and USD 125 in autumn, the park and municipality fees add about NPR 6,000, and the rest is the Lukla flights, the lodges, the climbing crew and the group equipment.

Day by day

The 16 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu to Lukla, walk to Phakding

    Kathmandu (1,400 m) → Lukla (2,860 m) → Phakding (2,610 m)

    Distance
    8 km
    Walking
    3 hours after the flight
    Altitude
    1,400 m → 2,610 m
    Elevation
    −250 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Phakding
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  2. Day 2

    Phakding to Namche Bazaar

    Phakding (2,610 m) → Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)

    Distance
    11 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    2,610 m → 3,440 m
    Elevation
    +830 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Namche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • The Hillary suspension bridge
    • First view of Everest
  3. Day 3

    Namche — acclimatisation day

    Namche (3,440 m) → Everest View Hotel (3,880 m) → Namche

    Distance
    6 km
    Walking
    4 hours
    Altitude
    3,440 m → 3,440 m
    Elevation
    +440 m / −440 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Namche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  4. Day 4

    Namche to Tengboche

    Namche (3,440 m) → Tengboche (3,860 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,440 m → 3,860 m
    Elevation
    +600 m / −180 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Tengboche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
    • Tengboche monastery
    • Ama Dablam from the north
  5. Day 5

    Tengboche to Dingboche

    Tengboche (3,860 m) → Dingboche (4,410 m)

    Distance
    12 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,860 m → 4,410 m
    Elevation
    +600 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Dingboche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    Dingboche — acclimatisation day

    Dingboche (4,410 m) → Nangkartshang (5,083 m) → Dingboche

    Distance
    6 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    4,410 m → 4,410 m
    Elevation
    +673 m / −673 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Dingboche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    The first time above 5,000 m. How this day feels is the best early indicator of how the summit night will go.

  7. Day 7

    Dingboche to Chhukung

    Dingboche (4,410 m) → Chhukung (4,730 m)

    Distance
    6 km
    Walking
    3 hours
    Altitude
    4,410 m → 4,730 m
    Elevation
    +320 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Chhukung
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  8. Day 8

    Chhukung Ri and skills refresher

    Chhukung (4,730 m) → Chhukung Ri (5,546 m) → Chhukung

    Distance
    7 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    4,730 m → 4,730 m
    Elevation
    +816 m / −816 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Chhukung
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Most operators run the rope-work session here or at base camp — fitting crampons, using a jumar on a fixed line, abseiling off. If you have never done it, this is the day it is taught.

    • Chhukung Ri
    • Crampon
    • jumar and abseil practice
  9. Day 9

    Chhukung to Island Peak base camp

    Chhukung (4,730 m) → base camp (5,087 m)

    Distance
    6 km
    Walking
    4 hours
    Altitude
    4,730 m → 5,087 m
    Elevation
    +357 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  10. Day 10

    Summit day, and back to Chhukung

    Base camp (5,087 m) → Island Peak (6,189 m) → Chhukung (4,730 m)

    Distance
    14 km
    Walking
    14–16 hours
    Altitude
    5,087 m → 4,730 m
    Elevation
    +1102 m / −1459 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Chhukung
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Away between one and two in the morning. Rock and scree to the glacier, then roped across it to the headwall — a little over a hundred metres of fixed line at up to about 45 degrees — and a narrow, exposed snow ridge to the top. Lhotse, Nuptse and Makalu are the view. It is a very long day.

    • The headwall
    • The summit ridge
    • Lhotse's south face at dawn
  11. Day 11

    Contingency day

    Reserved at Chhukung

    Walking
    Altitude
    4,730 m → 4,730 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Chhukung
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Weather, or a second attempt. Groups that do not build one in are the ones that come home without the summit.

  12. Day 12

    Chhukung to Tengboche

    Chhukung (4,730 m) → Pangboche → Tengboche (3,860 m)

    Distance
    18 km
    Walking
    6 hours
    Altitude
    4,730 m → 3,860 m
    Elevation
    −870 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Tengboche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  13. Day 13

    Tengboche to Namche

    Tengboche (3,860 m) → Namche (3,440 m)

    Distance
    10 km
    Walking
    5 hours
    Altitude
    3,860 m → 3,440 m
    Elevation
    −420 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Namche
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  14. Day 14

    Namche to Lukla

    Namche (3,440 m) → Lukla (2,860 m)

    Distance
    19 km
    Walking
    7 hours
    Altitude
    3,440 m → 2,860 m
    Elevation
    −580 m
    Sleep
    Lodge, Lukla
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  15. Day 15

    Lukla to Kathmandu

    Lukla (2,860 m) → Kathmandu (1,400 m)

    Walking
    35 minutes by air
    Altitude
    2,860 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast
  16. Day 16

    Contingency day in Kathmandu

    Reserved for a delayed Lukla flight

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

Do you need climbing experience?
No, and that is why it is the peak most people climb first — but "no experience required" is doing a lot of work in the brochures. You need to be comfortable on a fixed line with a jumar, walking in crampons on a rope, and abseiling. Reputable operators teach all three on the hill before summit day. What cannot be taught in a week is the fitness for a fourteen-hour day starting at 1 a.m. at 5,000 m.
How hard is it, really?
The mountaineering is straightforward — Alpine PD, roughly. The headwall is a little over a hundred metres of fixed rope at up to about 45 degrees, and the summit ridge is narrow and exposed but not technical. The difficulty is altitude and duration. Summit day is 1,100 m of ascent and 1,450 m of descent above 5,000 m, in the dark and cold for the first half.
What does the permit cost?
Island Peak is an NMA Group B peak: USD 250 per person in spring, USD 125 in autumn, USD 70 in winter and monsoon. On top of that come the Sagarmatha National Park entry at NPR 3,000 and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality fee at NPR 3,000. A climbing sirdar is mandatory.
How does it compare with Mera Peak?
Mera is nearly 300 metres higher and easier technically — a glacier walk with one short steep step below the summit. Island Peak is lower but has the headwall and the ridge, so it teaches more. If you want the altitude, go to Mera; if you want to learn to climb, come here.
When should you go?
April and May, or late October and November. Spring is warmer with more settled snow on the headwall; autumn is colder and clearer. Winter climbs happen and the permit is cheap, but the summit ridge in January is a serious cold-weather undertaking.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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