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A dark rock and snow face rising to a summit

Trek · Everest Region

Lhotse Expedition

Sixty days to the fourth-highest mountain on earth, sharing Everest's route as far as the Lhotse Face and then turning right into the couloir. The eight-thousander in Everest's shadow, and a harder summit day.

By Tom Eriksen
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Photo by Rijan Gurung on Unsplash

Duration
60 days
Distance
155 km
Max altitude
8,516 m
Difficulty
Strenuous
Best season
Apr–May
Cost
$25,000–$55,000

Overview

Lhotse is 8,516 metres, the fourth-highest mountain on earth, and it shares Everest's route as far as camp three. Where Everest turns left for the Geneva Spur, Lhotse goes right and up into the couloir that splits its west face.

Same mountain, different day

Everything to 7,200 m is Everest: the same Khumbu Icefall, the same Western Cwm, the same blue-ice Lhotse Face, the same base camp and fixed lines. The workload and the objective risk are identical.

Summit day is not. The Lhotse Couloir is a narrow gully of snow and ice that steepens toward a rock step near the top — a real scramble at 8,500 metres, with no room to overtake and everything above you funnelling down.

Why it costs half

Only the royalty differs: USD 1,800 against Everest's USD 15,000. The oxygen, Sherpas, camps and two months of logistics cost the same, so the total lands at roughly half rather than a fraction.

What it costs

USD 25,000 to 55,000, spring only. Autumn is permitted at half royalty and effectively never climbed — without the spring Icefall route and fixed lines there is no infrastructure to climb on.

Day by day

The 60 days itinerary

Distances, walking times, altitudes and accommodation for every stage — stored as structured data, not written into the prose.

  1. Day 1

    Kathmandu — briefing and load-out

    Ministry briefing, gear check, packing

    Altitude
    1,400 m → 1,400 m
    Sleep
    Hotel, Kathmandu
    Meals
    Breakfast, dinner
  2. Day 2

    The Khumbu approach to base camp

    Lukla (2,860 m) → Namche → Dingboche → Base Camp (5,364 m)

    Walking
    9–10 days with acclimatisation
    Altitude
    2,860 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +2504 m
    Sleep
    Lodges, then tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  3. Day 3

    Base camp — puja and Icefall training

    Base camp (5,364 m)

    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  4. Day 4

    First rotation — camp one

    Base camp (5,364 m) → camp one (6,065 m) → base camp

    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +700 m / −700 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  5. Day 5

    Second rotation — camp two in the Western Cwm

    Base camp → camp one → camp two (6,400 m) → base camp

    Walking
    4–5 days
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +1036 m / −1036 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  6. Day 6

    Third rotation — the Lhotse Face to camp three

    Base camp → camp two → camp three (7,200 m) → base camp

    Walking
    5–6 days
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    +1836 m / −1836 m
    Sleep
    Tented camps
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Identical to Everest to this point — the same Icefall, the same Cwm, the same blue-ice face. Lhotse and Everest teams share base camp, the fixed lines and the Icefall Doctors' route.

  7. Day 7

    Base camp — rest and the wait for a window

    Base camp (5,364 m), often a week or more

    Altitude
    5,364 m → 5,364 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  8. Day 8

    Summit push — base camp to camp three

    Base camp (5,364 m) → camp two → camp three (7,200 m)

    Walking
    3 days
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 7,200 m
    Elevation
    +1836 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp three
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  9. Day 9

    Camp three to camp four

    Camp three (7,200 m) → Lhotse camp four (7,800 m)

    Walking
    4–5 hours
    Altitude
    7,200 m → 7,800 m
    Elevation
    +600 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp four
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    Where Everest turns left for the Geneva Spur and the South Col, Lhotse goes right and up, to a camp perched on the face below the couloir.

  10. Day 10

    Summit day — the Lhotse Couloir

    Camp four (7,800 m) → Lhotse Couloir → Lhotse (8,516 m) → camp four

    Walking
    12–16 hours
    Altitude
    7,800 m → 7,800 m
    Elevation
    +716 m / −716 m
    Sleep
    Tented camp four
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

    A long narrow gully of snow and ice, steepening towards the top, with a rock step near the summit and no room to pass. The final metres are a genuine scramble on exposed rock at 8,500 m — technically harder than anything on Everest's south side.

    • The couloir
    • Everest's south-west face across the cwm
  11. Day 11

    Descent to base camp

    Camp four (7,800 m) → camp two → base camp (5,364 m)

    Walking
    2 days
    Altitude
    7,800 m → 5,364 m
    Elevation
    −2436 m
    Sleep
    Tented base camp
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  12. Day 12

    Base camp out, and reserve days

    Base camp (5,364 m) → Lukla (2,860 m) → Kathmandu

    Walking
    3 days on foot, or a helicopter
    Altitude
    5,364 m → 1,400 m
    Meals
    Breakfast, lunch, dinner

Route map

Where the trail goes

Route line, start and end points, and every overnight stop. Locations are shared entities — the same record powers the destination and itinerary pages.

Loading map…

Frequently asked questions

Is Lhotse easier than Everest?
Cheaper and shorter, not easier on the day. The routes are identical to camp three, so the Icefall risk and the workload are the same. Lhotse's summit day is then more technical than Everest's — a narrow couloir with a rock step near the top, no room to overtake, and a genuine scramble at 8,500 metres.
Why is it so much cheaper?
The royalty. Everest is USD 15,000 a head; every other Nepali eight-thousander is USD 1,800. Everything else — oxygen, Sherpas, camps, two months of logistics — costs much the same, which is why the total is roughly half rather than a tenth.
Can you climb both in one season?
Some do, using the shared route and a single acclimatisation programme, going for Everest first and Lhotse a day or two later from the South Col. It requires two royalties, exceptional fitness and a long weather window, and it is the preserve of very strong climbers.
What is the hardest part?
The couloir. It funnels everything — climbers, rockfall, spindrift — into one narrow line, and a queue in it at 8,300 metres is a serious situation with no way past. The rock step near the summit is the technical crux.
When should you go?
April and May, for the same reason as Everest: the fixed lines, the Icefall route and the Sherpa infrastructure exist only in spring. Autumn is legal at half royalty and effectively unclimbed.

About the author

Tom Eriksen

Gear editor & photographer

Tom tests trekking equipment the only way that produces honest answers: by carrying it for weeks at a time above 4,000 metres. He shoots most of the photography on this site and writes the gear reviews, comparison tables and packing lists.

Writes about: Trekking gear · Photography · Packing and weight

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